#每天读一点服装史# ELEGANT FORMALITY

1560 - 1590

ELEGANT FORMALITY

As the century progressed so the gradual stiffening of women's dress continued.

The increasingly rigid garments needed extra support, and separate boned "pairs of bodies" (stiff undergarments) worn under gowns started to appear -- the beginning of stays and corsetry.

Linear bands and braids followed the clothing's sharp lines and emphaisized its control of body shape.

The body's natural lines rarely appeared.

The rise and power of the Spanish empire made their severe formality and clever tailoring fashionable, although in many Italian areas a more relaxed soft look held sway.

Ruffs slowly widened and became separate from shirt collars.

Labor - intensive lace made its first appearance and became a mark of luxury -- similar to velvets or jewels.

Necklines were either at bust level or up to the chin.

The silhouette stayed triangular with narrow waists ending in sharp points and full skirts.

The tops of sleeves of women's dresses started to be styled into puffs, tabs, and rolls.

Male and female fashions followed similar trends of adornments, cut and color.

Anna,Queen of Spain


ACCESSORIES

The 16th century saw an increase in the variety and adornment of accessories for both men and women.

Gloves, made of the finest leather, could be embroidered, and were given as tokens of respect and affection.

Fans were popular in hot countries.

Linen handkerchiefs were a splendid way to show off the new techniques of needle and bobbin lace.

When shoes became visible, their heels and rosettes became equally decorative.

Silk and gold ribbons, used in abundance if possible, were also a form of accessory because of their high price.

Gloves


HAIRSTYLES

New clothes were costly and time consuming but hair could be changed every day.

Another example of the inventive Renaissance love of finery, women's hair during the 16th century was parted in the center, swept over the temples, curled, crimped, arranged over pads to keep the shape, frizzled, bewigged, piled into high peaks, or hidden.

In Italy, bleaching hair blonde was particularly popular, as in the drawing of the Venetian woman below.

Hair on the back of the head was curled up in braids and became a support for hats and headdresses, attached with pins.

Women added jewels, ribbons, and feathers, like the ribbons perched on Anne of Denmark's fluffy mounds of hair.

Anna with cruel hair and ribbon


公元1560 - 1590年

优雅礼节

随着世纪的演进,女装变化也在逐渐增加。

日益死板的服装需要额外的支持,以及分开去骨的胸衣(刚性内衣)开始出现,这是紧身胸衣的开始。

线型编织带遵循服装的曲折线条,强调对身体形状的控制。

身体的自然线条消失了。

西班牙王朝的崛起和权利造就他们严格的礼节和巧夺天工的裁剪时尚,尽管在许多意大利地区人们仍保有更自由松软的外观穿着。

层状花边慢慢变宽,开始从衬衫领上分开。

集中型蕾丝得到首次亮相并且成为奢侈品的标志,与天鹅绒或珠宝类似。

领口亦或是低到胸部,亦或直接高到下巴。

轮廓仍旧保持窄腰三角形直到连接长裙处结束。

女装连衣裙的袖笼顶部开始流行泡泡袖与滚边袖。

男性与女性服饰都遵循相似的装饰剪裁与色彩趋势。

西班牙皇后安娜


配饰

在十六世纪可以看到,男性与女性配饰的种类和装饰都有所增加。

手套,由最好的皮革制成,能够绣花,并且赋予尊敬与情感的标记。

扇子在炎热国家很受欢迎。

亚麻手帕是炫耀新针法和线轴蕾丝的璀璨手段。

当鞋子变得可见时,鞋跟与玫瑰成为相同的装饰品。

丝绸与金丝带被尽可能的丰富使用,因为价格高昂他们同时也是配饰的一种。

伊丽莎白女王的羽毛扇子


发型

新衣服是昂贵并且费时的,但头发可以每天变换花样。

另一个文艺复兴时期华丽服饰的例子,女性头发在十六世纪是从中间分开的,向后扫过太阳穴,卷曲,波浪,安置衬垫保持造型,小卷发,假发,堆积得高高的,或者隐藏起来。

在意大利,漂白头发的金发女郎很受欢迎,就像下面画中的威尼斯女郎。

头脑勺的头发卷曲收进辫子里,成为帽子与头饰的支撑,并以发卡固定。

女士们加上珠宝,丝带还有羽毛,就像詹姆一世的皇后安妮将丝带佩戴在蓬松的头发上。

詹姆一世的皇后安妮,蓬松的卷发发髻上佩戴丝带装饰,领口有新型分开式蕾丝领。
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