1840 - 1900
FORMAL WEAR FOR MEN
Gentlemen’s formal dress became more somber in shape and tone in the mid-19th century.
The three-piece suit emerged in the 1860s, although it was still some years off becoming a uniform of business respectability.
Fibers for all garments were still natural, but advanced machinery made more intricate weaves and color combinations possible.
The sewing machine helped the ready-made trade, while tailors’ manuals with patterns for varying styles of coat proliferated.
In leisurewear there were color combinations and contrasts to delight: embroidered accessories, an intriguing glimpse of luxurious lining fabric, or a jaunty pair o striped, checked, or plaid trousers.
Stylish items of day wear — top hat, cravat, and pantaloons — became reserved for formal wear, while bowler hats and ties supplanted them for day.
EXOTIC LEISUREWEAR
While formal wear was understated, men could express themselves with more individuality and color when off duty.
They took the opportunity to show off materials and garments imported from abroad or gathered on travels, whether out and about or indoors.
Padded robes were ideal for the businessman relaxing at home, worn over shirt and suit pants or (right) a pair of matching pajamas called mama trousers.
This striped robe was woven in India and features an Indian both (pinecone) motif repeat.
A smoking cap with tassel and slip-on leather slippers complete the exotic ensemble.
1840 - 1900
男士正装
十九世纪中期，绅士的正式穿着在外形与色调上更显沉重了。
西服三件套在十九世纪60年代出现，虽然离它正式成为商务穿着还有一些年份。
所有的服饰纤维仍旧是自然纤维，但先进的机器已经可以制作出更复杂的编织与色彩混合。
缝纫机帮助成衣贸易成为可能，而为展示不同外套款式而制作的缝纫手册也越来越多了。
而休闲服则强调色彩的组合与对比，其中包括绣花配件，豪华衬里，或者一条可爱的条纹，格子花呢休闲裤。
日常着装中 — 帽子，领结与男士马裤被圆顶高帽与领带则被取代了。
异国休闲服
正式服装是低调的，男性可在非正式的场合表现出更多个性与色彩。
他们乘着这个机会展示从国外进口或者旅行收集的面料与服装，无论室内还是室外。
浴袍是商务人士在家放松时的一种打扮，大衬衣搭配同款的裤子，或者一套睡衣套装。
条纹长袍是在印度编织的，并有印度特色的重复图案。
一顶带流苏的吸烟帽和一双皮质船鞋完成了整套异国情调的搭配。
