#每天读一点服装史90篇# A LIFE OF LEISURE

A LIFE OF LEISURE

The early 1900s was a time of contradiction: on one hand was rapid technological change, the rise of motorcars, and female emancipation; on the other, a golden glow of romantic, hedonistic nostalgia enjoyed by the leisured classes.

The latter view still defines the Edwardian era for many, and it was captured perfectly by contemporary fashions.

Edward VII’s love of extravagant pleasure set the age’s tone, with rounds of lavish balls, country-house parties, travel, and athletic pursuits.

England’s expanding middle classes, upwardly mobile due to the Industrial Revolution, aped this upper-class lifestyle: garden parties, tea on the terrace, picnics, regattas, the races—all requiring suitable outfits.

For women, pastel colors were de rigueur, as was sumptuous lace, mousse line de soie (gauzelike fabric), silk chiffon, tulle, crepe de Chine, ribbon trimmings, and any frilly, lacy detailing.

Huge hats bobbed with great feathers or silk flowers.

Long, wavy hair was fastened around pads for luxuriant fullness, and the parasol was an essential accessory.

The fashionable female shape, created by corsetry, was also luxuriant: a large, low, forward-thrust “monobosom,” a wasp waist, and full hips from which a bell-shaped skirt, narrower than Victorian styles, fell gracefully.


EDWARDIAN ERA

High necks and long sleeves were worn in daytime, with bodices and necklines infilled with lace or light fabric.

Male fashions served as a simple, sober foil.

Frock and morning coats were joined by lounge suits worn with crisp collar and cuffs, hats, and umbrella or cane.


FASHION 1908


闲暇生活

二十世纪早期是一个矛盾的时期:一方面技术在迅速变革,摩托车激增,女性解放;另一方面,浪漫与享乐主义怀旧风的吹拂着闲暇阶层。

后者的观点为许多人定义了爱德华时代,它完美捕捉了当时的时尚风格。

爱德华七世因为对奢华娱乐的热爱而为这个时代设立了基调,阔气的舞会,乡村别墅派对,旅行以及对于运动的追求。

英格兰不断扩展的中产阶层向上流动都基于工业革命之上,从而引发的高端生活方式有:花园派对,阳台茶会,野餐,赛马 — 而这些活动都需要合适的服饰装备。


TEA GARDEN

对女性来说,柔和色彩是必须的,如同华丽花边,真丝薄绸,丝绸雪纺,薄纱,绉绸,丝带以及任何褶边花边细节等。

巨大的帽子上飘扬着大羽毛或丝绸花朵。

卷曲的波浪长发被固定在支撑垫上以显示奢华与饱满,而遮阳伞是必不可少的配件。

由紧身胸衣塑造的时尚女性轮廓也是相当华丽的:一种大而低,向前隆起的“鸽子胸”式的衬衫,搭配黄蜂细腰,以及丰满的臀部,被覆盖在优美的维多利亚风格的狭窄钟型裙中。

高领与长袖是白天装束,胸衣与领口被蕾丝与轻薄面料充满。

男性时尚仍旧保持简单利落。

罩衫与晨间大衣加入到了休闲服饰中,伴随上浆的衣领与袖口,帽子雨伞或手杖也必不可少。


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