色彩碧瑶
文/颜克
来菲整整两个月了，生活在碧瑶，就是生活在色彩的世界。
先是那浓淡总相宜的绿，各种热带植物、树木、花草不同的绿，把公园的湖水都染了，有时候仰望天空，会觉得白云里也会有丝丝绿意。这绿，在阴雨天，在阳光下，会变幻出不同的层次，有时候幽幽的，空灵，透明；有时候又重重的，稳健，细密。偶尔会觉得这绿似曾相识，像家乡雨后山上的清晨，又像盛夏里的森林，也像是莫奈莲花池里的叶片，或是吴冠中画里的水乡，常常梦里会迷失在这绿意里，如品了花的芬芳，醉在碧瑶的仙境中。偶尔细雨和云朵缠绕在一起，游荡在你的周围，到处弥漫着薄雾的绿，真是把心都融化了，不知是你在雾中游，还是云在你的身边飘。单这绿，就爱极了碧瑶。
在绿底子上，任何颜色都会显得生动。碧瑶没有高楼大厦，随处可见的是建筑风格各异的小别墅，还有纯粹的少数民族的草房和树屋，真是赞叹碧瑶人对色彩的运用和诠释。彩色别墅掩映在翠绿的松柏中，如钻石，如琥珀，闪耀着绚丽的光芒。可以是粉顶，可以是蓝墙，有玫红的栅栏，有洁白的窗格，连总统的夏宫也是绿色，但屋内一定色彩缤纷。路途中见过一栋七彩颜色的别墅，却又搭配得和谐自然，还有的别墅通体的洁白，圣神静谧。还有粉色的教堂，蓝色的超市，彩色玻璃的窗户，琉璃碎片的台阶。一个房屋一种色彩的墙壁，这儿的油漆恐怕都是天然的吧，能调配出千百种颜色来，可见碧瑶人对色彩有多么热爱，生活有多么精致。这儿别墅多木质结构，地板都是原木的，天然的漆再刷到木头上，和谐美丽。碧瑶真是木头太多了，公园里随便的木桩都可以站成一座雕像，一堆的木头会生成一处别致的风景，就那么随意的堆放，仿佛是大自然的手笔，原始又神秘。原木的颜色和各式墙漆融合在一起，就妆出别墅特有的品质。自家的花园，或是公共的绿地，到处都是木的长椅。是真木头，不是钢筋水泥的仿制。无论清晨或午后，在这样的长椅落座，仿佛触碰了大自然的肌肤，有情感，有温度，也就有了生命。不用数年轮，只须静静地聆听，他在与你讲述碧瑶千百年的故事……
我们的校园外墙是木红色，进门的走廊是蓝色系的装饰花纹，每个楼层一个颜色，每个教室不同色彩搭配。最美丽的当然是幼儿园，粉蓝，粉红，粉绿，淡黄，浅紫，深绿，大红……每个物品都是要有颜色的，就连我们认为教室里必备的黑板都是深绿色，木质的，漆了厚厚的漆，写起字来却很舒服。第一次见到了不是黑色的黑板，也许只有碧瑶是这样吧？在这样的色彩世界，是童话的世界！美丽的色彩，和着孩子们爽朗的笑声，每一天，都是美好的。
与这彩色搭配的，是老师们周一到周四不同色彩的制服，咖啡、翠绿、玫红、果绿。一天一套，一天一色。孩子们海军蓝的校服和白T恤的运动装每天换着穿。而男教师，四件不同色彩的衬衣，真是附和着女教师服装的美丽。能把粉色衬衣和酒红衬衣穿出味道的男士，恐怕也只有在碧瑶了，那其他颜色，自然也是与众不同的。最喜欢看超市里的服装区，不同品牌不同色彩的搭配，极具享受的视觉盛宴，喜欢一个T恤专柜，男模身上穿了“星期衫”——七天七个颜色：大红、橘黄、柠檬黄、草绿、中绿、湖蓝、深紫，想象着和喜欢的男生每天穿着一样的色彩，该是一件多么浪漫的事，即使阴雨天，也有彩虹般的绚丽。超市里女装的色彩自然不用文字表达了，有你想到的，也有出乎意外的。那一件件衣服单单叠在那里，就染了你的双眸。色彩人生不过如此。还有公园里的舞者，说是广场舞，却都统一服装，一天一个颜色，粉红、紫色、白色、天蓝、黑色、玫红、中黄，百余人穿着色彩艳丽的服装在公园里跳着劲爆的广场舞，确是一道美丽的风景，常常有步行者驻足观看，或忍不住加入舞蹈的队伍，看风景的人也是舞者眼里的风景，这又成了一道风景！在艺术PARTY里看了少数民族的表演，有成年男子躶体做祭祀，只在腰间前后围了民族织棉的挡布，那布料，是红色系的多种色彩织棉，只最简单的裹布，体现了人对自然的敬畏和崇拜。据说这里的高山族以前是不穿衣服的，无论男女，我想那一定是伊甸园了，日子越久，逝去的就越多。但菲律宾对民族传统继承的还是相当好的。民族的，才是世界的。
美丽的服装还要有美丽的脸庞。有个笑话讲最完美的皮肤：上帝想给人类打造出最完美的皮肤。第一次，他煮过头了，皮肤成了黑色，这便是非洲人；第二次，他忘记煮了，皮肤成了白色，这便是美国人；第三次，他煮得半生半熟的，皮肤成了黄色，这便是中国人；第四次，他决定打造出人类最完美的皮肤，他小心翼翼地煮，皮肤成了棕褐色，这便是菲律宾人。在高山强紫外线的阳光沐浴下，棕褐色的皮肤却是最完美的，虽然碧瑶有不同种族不同民族不同肤色的人，但棕褐色的皮肤是这里永恒的色彩。完美的肌肤搭配大大的眼睛和长长的睫毛，不需要任何化妆品，都恰到好处。而碧瑶的美女都喜欢涂口红，并且是要把厚厚的嘴唇涂得猩红，初来真不习惯，国人多喜欢素颜，但一只口红的魅力，恐怕不用说也是充满诱惑的。如果说红唇太张扬，菲律宾美女们大多一头乌黑而浓密的齐腰长发却是浑然天成，就那么瀑布一样垂着，束发和盘头的极少。这样的秀发再和着音乐的旋律舞动着，单纯美丽。我就常常回头看擦肩而过的长发，难怪周润发有句经典的的广告词：“我的梦中情人要有一头乌黑亮丽的长发！”这黑发，这红唇，诱惑了我，是否也蛊惑了你？
色彩的碧瑶，聚集了众多艺术家和不同的艺术形式，再多的画笔，也画不完碧瑶的美丽。这里最多的交通工具是他们叫“吉普尼”的车，却又是一道风景，因为整个国家无以计数的吉普尼车身都画了涂鸦，车主应该不算艺术家，但都精心打造自己的爱车，红色、绿色、紫色、彩色，有的是文字，有的是图案，应该没有两辆车的装饰是相同的。街道上川流不息的吉普尼，汇聚成了色彩的河流，装点着碧瑶。国人应该是很低调的，买车多是黑白灰，而这里的私家车，也是红黄蓝都有。涂鸦不仅在车上，许多路边，学校门口的墙壁上，广告牌，都是随意的涂鸦，可能不形象，但一定醒目，色彩丰富。校园里的海报，也有美妙的涂鸦，学生们稚拙的笔调，可以随意挥洒色彩的绚烂。大众如此，艺术家笔下的色彩，更是无以伦比。流连在艺术家的画作中，体验他们对色彩的诠释，仿佛看到一张白纸如何一点点变成了精美的作品，仿佛看到那么多的颜色如何在艺术家的笔下汇聚在一起，自然的流淌，思想的畅游。或浓烈，或清新，或厚重，或自然，或写实，或抽象，铺，撒，点，染，皴，擦，拖，拽，或是多种材质的装置艺术，没有伪饰，崇尚自然。一街一路可以入画，一村一落皆是美景，一民一族各不相同，一颦一笑爽朗自然。我只叹息时光匆匆太匆匆，我如何能用我稚拙的线条留下这么多美景？
印象最深的是这里的木刻版画，手工和艺术的结合，色彩的构成加上娴熟的笔法，美的无以伦比。远远地看着，就留到了心底，印到了脑海，是拔也拔不出来了。绘画是画家对自然体验的加工和重组，那摄影，几乎是碧瑶美景的再现了，即使有后期制作，即使有PS，也是碧瑶本身的魅力。摄影师镜头里的美景，风土人情，微观世界，是我这俗眼不能发现的，透过镜头看碧瑶，是另一种境界的美。
夜已深，我还在看着镜头里的奇异世界，变换着多姿的颜色。晚安碧瑶，七色的梦！
2014.7.28夜
The color of Baguio
I arrived in the Philippines for two months, living in Baguio, is living in the colorful world.
First is the total affordable the shades of green, all kinds of tropical plants, trees, flowers of different green, the water in the park was dyed, sometimes looking up to the sky, I will feel that there will also be a trace of green in the white clouds. The green, in the rainy days, in the sun, changing to a different level, sometimes faint, ethereal, transparent; sometimes heavy, robust, fine. Occasionally I feel the familiar green, like the morning after the rain, the home of the mountain and like summer in the forest, also looking like leaves in Mo Nai’s lotus pond or painting in Wu Guanzhong’s region of rivers and lakes, often the dream will be lost in the greenery, just like tasting such as the fragrance of flowers, drunk in Baguio in Wonderland. Occasionally drizzle and clouds intertwined, wandering around you, everywhere filled with mist of the green, really the heart has melted, I do not know you are in the middle of the fog, or clouds in your side floating. only for the green, I love the Baguio city the most.
In the green foundation, any color will appear vivid. Baguio has no high-rise buildings, everywhere is the buildings of various styles of small villas and pure minority thatched cottage and the tree house, I really praise people in Baguio how to use the color and interpretation. Color villa nestled in the green pines and cypresses, such as diamond, such as amber, brilliant light shining. Can be the top of the powder, it can be a blue wall, there is red rose fence, there is white pane, even President of the summer palace is green, but the house inside must be colorful. Seen in journey of building colors of the villa, but mix natural and harmonious, and the villa quintana white spirit tranquility. There are pink churches, blue supermarkets, stained glass windows, glass fragments of the stairs. A housing of a kind of color walls, here the paint is afraid to be natural, it can deploy thousands of colors, it is visible that how deep love about color Baguio people have , life is so delicate. Here villa have more wood structure, the floor is logs, natural paint brush onto the wood, harmony and beautiful. Baguio has really too much wood. In the park just piles of wood can station into a statue, a pile of wood will generate a unique scenery, so casual piled up, as if it were nature's handwriting, original and mysterious. The color of the logs and various wall paint fuse together, the makeup of the unique quality of the villa. Their own gardens, or public green spaces, are all wooden benches.. It's true wood, not imitation of reinforced concrete.. Whether in the morning or in the afternoon, in this bench seating, as if we touched the nature of the skin, it has emotional, temperature, it also has the life. Not only the number of rings, listen quietly, he and you tell the story of Baguio for thousands of years......
Our school wall is a wooden red, the corridor is the door of the blue Department of decorative pattern, each floor has a color, each classroom with different colors. The most beautiful of course is the kindergarten, blue, pink, pink and green, purple, yellow, green, red...... Each item is to have the color, even we think the classroom must have the blackboard are dark green, wood, paint a thick paint, writing the word is very comfortable. The first time I saw the blackboard is not black, perhaps only Baguio is so? In this world of color, the world of fairy tale! Beautiful colors, and the children's laughter, every day, is beautiful.
With this color collocation, they are teachers’ different color uniforms from Monday to Thursday, Coffee, green, red, green. Each day has a color, The children of the Navy uniforms and white T-shirt, sportswear for wearing every day. While male teachers, four different colors of the shirt, it is with the beautiful female teachers clothing. The pink shirt and wine red shirt piercing taste of men is perhaps the only in Baguio, the other colors, nature is also different. Most people like to see in the supermarket in the garment district, the collocation of different brands of different color, enjoy the visual feast very much, like a T-shirt shop, male model who wear the sweater week, seven days has seven colors: red, orange, lemon yellow, grass green, green, light blue, deep purple, imagine the boys every day wearing the same color, this is a very romantic thing to do, even rainy day, beautiful rainbow. The supermarket's natural color without words, you think, is the Out of the Blue. That piece of clothes just stacked in there, into your eyes. Color life but so. And dancers in the park, said is the square dance, but uniform clothing, one day a color, pink, purple, white, blue, black, red rose, yellow, hundreds of people dressed in colorful costumes in the park Madden jump square dance, indeed, is a beautiful scenery, often walkers stopped to watch, or couldn't resist adding dance team, see the scenery is a dancer in the eyes of the scenery, which has become the scenery! Watch the performance of minority in the art party, adult men that make a sacrifice, only at the waist before and after around cotton national blocking cloth, the cloth is cotton red variety of colors, only the simplest wrapped in cloth, reflects the natural awe and worship. It is said that the mountain people here used to be no clothes, no matter the men and women, I think it must be Eden, the longer the day, the more gone. But the inheritance of the national heritage of Philippines is still quite good. The nation is the world..
Beautiful clothes also have a beautiful face. I have a joke to talk about the perfect skin. God wants to create the perfect skin for mankind. For the first time, he is overdone, the skin became black, that’s the Africans; second, he forgot to cook, skin became white, that’s the Americans; the third time, he cooked underdone, skin became yellow, which is the Chinese people; the fourth time, he decided to create the perfect human skin, he carefully cooked, skin became brown, this is a Filipino. In the alpine strong ultraviolet rays of the sun bathing, Tan is the most perfect skin, although the Baguio people of different races and nations with different colors, but brown skin is eternal color here. Perfect skin with big eyes and long eyelashes, do not need any cosmetics, are just right. And Baguio City beauty like using lipstick, and the thick lips painted scarlet, beginning to really not used to, Chinese people like makeup, but the charm of a lipstick, I probably would have said is full of temptation. If the lips have too much publicity, the Philippine beauties have mostly a black head and thick waist, long hair is naturally, it is like a waterfall hanging, few people bind their hair. Such hair dance with the melody, pure beauty. I often look back at the long hair, no wonder Zhou Runfa has a sentence of the classic AD: "my dream lover should have a black and bright long hair!" This dark hair, the red lips, seduced me, whether also confuse you?
The color of the Baguio, gathered a large number of artists and different forms of art, more of the brush, every painter can not finish drawing the beauty of Baguio. Here most transportation is what they call "Jeepney" car, but it is a landscape, because the whole country, the body of countless Jeepney are painted with graffiti, the owner should not be artists, but are carefully crafted his own car, red, green, purple, color, some text. Some patterns, there should be no decoration of the two cars are the same. In the street a Jeepney merged into the color of the river, decorated with jade. People should be very low-key, the car that they bought is mostly black, white and grey, and here the color of private cars are also red, blue and yellow. Graffiti is not only in the car, but also in many roadside, the school entrance walls, billboards, are free graffiti, may not image, but certainly eye-catching, rich color. Campus posters, there are wonderful graffiti, students simple style, gorgeous color can be casually found. So the public, an artist's pen color is unparalleled. Linger in the artist's paintings, to experience their interpretation of color, as if we see a piece of paper how come into the beautiful works of art step by step, as if we see so many colors how in the artist's pen gathered together, the natural flow, thought’s swimming. Or strong, or fresh, or thick, and heavy, or natural or realistic, or abstract, spread, Cast, and dye, cracked, rub, pull, drag, or is a variety of material of installation art, without pretense, respect for nature. A street painting, a village scenery is beautiful, a family of different people, hearty smile. I only sigh that the time flies too hastily, how can I use my lines left so much beauty?
The deepest impression is the woodcut prints here, the combination of manual and art, color composition and on skillful brushwork, unparalleled beauty. look at it from the distance, it can be left at the bottom of my heart, printed in the mind, I can not pull out. Painting is the painter of the natural experience of processing and the restructuring, the photography, almost is the reproduction of the beauty of Baguio, even with post production, even with PS and thats Baguio itself charming. The photographer has the beautiful scenery, customs, the micro world, it is in my vulgar eye I can not be found, looking through the lens of Baguio, it is another realm of beauty.
The night is deep, I still look at the strange world in the camera, changing the color of the scene. Good night Baguio, colorful dream!
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