原文：The Environmental and Human Cost of Making a Pair of Jeans
Americans do love their denim, so much so that the average consumer buys four pairs of jeans a year. In China's Xintang province, a hub for denim, 300 million pairs are made annually. Just as staggering is the brew of toxic chemicals and hundreds of gallons of water it takes to dye and finish one pair of jeans. The resulting environmental damage to rivers, ecosystems and communities in China, Bangladesh and India is the subject of a new documentary called The RiverBlue: Can Fashion Save the Planet?.
美国人对于牛仔裤的喜爱是世界公认的，每年平均每个美国消费者会购买4条牛仔裤。在牛仔面料之乡，中国广东新塘镇（英文原文写的是“新塘省”，错误），每年有3亿条牛仔裤在那里诞生。与这一产量数字同样惊人的还有染制一条牛仔裤所需要的有毒化学制品以及数百加仑的水。牛仔生产对于中国、孟加拉、印度的环境造成破坏，影响着这些国家的河流、生态系统以及人类社区，新纪录片 “蓝色河流: 时尚能够拯救地球吗?” 就取材于此。
It is estimated that 70 percent of Asia's rivers and lakes are contaminated by the 2.5 billion gallons of wastewater produced by that continent's textile industry. In scene after scene in the film, the dark frothy spill off can be seen rushing out of dye facilities while a cadre of scientists and environmental experts detail the public health crisis that has resulted from the largely unregulated manufacturing process.
据估算，亚洲的纺织行业所产生的25亿加仑废水污染了亚洲70%的河流和湖泊。在纪录片中，一群科学家和环境专家具体讲述了无人监管的牛仔布生产流程如何引发了公众健康危机，同时我们可以看到一帧又一帧的画面不停播放着冒泡的污水从染色作坊里奔涌而出的场景。
Co-directed by award-winning documentarians David McIlvride and Roger Williams and produced by Lisa Mazzotta, RiverBlue has won 13 awards globally including Best Documentary at Raindance in London and will be receiving the Green Drop Award from Filmambiente at the World Water council on World Water day, March 22. Three years in the making, the film follows internationally celebrated river conservationist, Mark Angelo, as he paddles the rivers devastated by the chemical waste and the local communities who rely on these rivers for drinking and bathing. These communities suffer from a high incidence of cancers, gastric, skin and related issues afflicting both their residents and factory laborers.
该纪录片由多次获奖的专业纪录片导演David McIlvride和Roger Williams共同执导，Lisa Mazzotta女士担当制片，（截止本文发布时）已经在全球获得了13个奖项，包括伦敦Raindance的“最佳纪录片奖”，并且将在3月22日“世界水日”获得由 Filmambiente 颁发的“绿色水滴环保电影奖”。在录制“蓝色河流”的三年时间里，剧组跟随世界著名的河流保护者Mark Angelo先生，一起划船到那些被化学废品污染的河流上实地取景，那些河流是当地居民的饮用水和清洁用水水源，水污染直接导致了当地人群癌症、胃病、皮肤病和其他疾病的高发病率，当地居民和工厂工人苦不堪言。
The Chemicals in Your Jeans（藏在你牛仔裤中的化学品）
What makes the process of making jeans so poisonous to people and planet? Consider just one of the most popular types of jeans today—distressed. To get that "lived in" look, denim is subjected to several chemical-intensive washes. Campaigners from the environmental group Greenpeace, who tested the outflows near dyeing and finishing facilities in the top denim producing towns in Asia, found five heavy metals (cadmium, chromium, mercury, lead and copper) in 17 out of 21 water and sediment samples taken from throughout Xintang one of the locales featured in the project. Toxic campaigners in China also discovered heavy metals like manganese, which can be associated with brain damage, in the rivers.
牛仔布生产流程为何会产生有毒物质，危害人类和地球呢？我们不妨以时下流行的“做旧牛仔”为例来分析。为了制造那种“被穿过”的视觉效果，牛仔布必须经过若干轮染洗，每一轮染洗都会用到大量的化学制剂。环保组织“Greenpeace”的成员对亚洲几个主要牛仔布生产地的工厂排出的污水进行了检测，在从新塘镇取得的21个水及沉淀物样本中，有17个里面含有5种重金属（镉，铬，汞，铅，铜）。中国的反对污染活动者们还在河水里发现了锰等重金属，这些重金属通常被认为能造成大脑损伤。
These chemicals don't stay put. They can also be transported to our North American oceans, atmosphere and food chains and accumulates in places far away from their original source.
这些化学污染物可不会一直呆在一个地方。它们总能通过某些方式进入到北美海域，大气中，食物链中，在远离它们来源地的地方聚积。
Where Should the Change Be?（从何处着手改变这种现状呢？）
The question the film poses to viewers: Are brand-name clothing corporations disregarding the environment in their zeal to make their clothes faster and cheaper for the consumer? "Low cost clothing has a high cost attached to it, one to the environment and public health," explains Angelo.
纪录片带给观众的问题：品牌生产商在以更快的速度和更低的成本制造服装时，是否忽略的我们的环境呢？Angelo说：“低成本的衣物生产背后，总是藏着高昂的代价，这个代价便是环境和公众健康。”
The solution the film's producers unveil is two-fold: through innovation and consumer education there can be change.
对于问题的解决方法，影片是从两方面反应的：生产技术创新和消费者教育。双管齐下，一定会引发好的改变。
Director David McIlvride was determined to find brands making jeans which didn't do damage to the environment. He found the father of distressed jeans: Francois Girbaud who introduced the eponymous stone washed jean decades ago. "It took 40 yrs. before we realized what we made and what we did was wrong," says Girbaud of using permanganate in the 1970s. "If people knew that the spraying of permanganate on your jeans to give you that acid- wash look was killing the guy doing the spraying, would you still want that look? I don't think the customer is aware of what is happening abroad. We have to change the process of making jeans and brands have to be willing to invest because we are destroying the planet," says Girbaud.
导演David McIlvride决心要找到一些不对环境造成损害的牛仔服饰生产品牌。他找到了被称为“做旧牛仔”之父的 Francois Girbaud，此人在几十年前打开了与“做旧牛仔”齐名的“石洗牛仔”的市场。对于在20世纪70年代牛仔布生产制造行业使用高锰酸盐的做法，Girbaud说：“40年后我们才意识到一直以来我们的产品和我们的做法都是个错误。为了在牛仔裤上制造做旧效果，工人需要往裤子上喷洒高锰酸钾。如果消费者知道喷洒高锰酸钾会对工人有致命的影响，他们还会喜欢做旧牛仔吗？我觉得消费者根本就不知道生产一条牛仔裤的代价。我们必须改变牛仔服生产工艺，品牌商也必须要舍得花钱，因为我们正在一步步毁灭我们的星球”。
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原文内容更多，包含当前一些环保牛仔服饰生产商的介绍，有兴趣的朋友可点击文字开头的一行字来继续阅读。
