FASHION ICON
MARIE - ANTOINETTE
When the Austrian-born Marie-Antoinette (1755-1793) arrived in France in 1770, she was handed over to the the Bourbon court and stripped naked.
Relinquishing her Austrian nationality along with her clothes, she was dressed in a gleaming ceremonial gown.
She was to marry the dauphin, Louis Auguste, the future King Louis XVI of France, and give the kingdom an heir.
At first she played the dutiful wife, but struggled to fit in with Versailles’ rigid idea of royal glamour:
vast pannier skirts (undergarments worn wide at the sides, but flat at the front and rear) and whalebone corsets.
Friendless, childless, and viewed with suspicion by a hostile French court, she turned to costume as a strategy for survival and to bolster her prestige.
One disapproving aristocrat remarked that she had staged a “veritable revolution in fashion.”
Extravagance and experimentation
Marie-Antoinette confounded expectations of a royal consort.
In a scandalous move, she refused to wear the posture-enhancing corset.
After learning to ride, she abandoned the long, flowing skirts of a sidesaddle rider and wore male breeches and a riding coat, drawing swift condemnation.
Her mother warned: “ If you are riding like a man, dressed as a man… I have to tell you that I find it dangerous as well as bad for bearing children…”
In 1774, when her husband Louis XVI was crowned King of France, all eyes were on Marie-Antoinette and her new “pouf” hairstyle.
Heavily powdered hair was teased high above the forehead and topped with a cluster of white ostrich feathers.
Simplicity and star quality
By the mid-to late 1780s Marie-Antoinette had changed style completely.
She offended her French compatriots by adopting Anglophile fashions, wearing much simpler, lighter dresses.
As her look softened, she outraged courtiers by wearing thin, muslin chemises a la Reine loosely belted at the waist.
The peasant-girl look was topped with a broad straw hat, tilted at every imaginable angle.
It was a trend condemned by French society but soon copied.
时尚典范
玛丽 安东尼特
当奥地利出生的玛丽 安东尼特（1755-1793）在1770年抵达法国时，她赤条条地被移送到波旁家族。
随同她的奥地利国籍一起，她穿着的闪闪发光的礼服也一并放弃了。
她要与王太子路易斯奥古斯特结婚，未来法国国王路易十六，王位的继承人。
一开始她扮演顺从的妻子，努力迎合凡尔赛宫死板的皇家礼仪：
宽大的篮筐裙（两侧有宽大的内衬，但前后齐平）与鱼骨胸衣。
没有朋友，没有子女，被充满敌意的法国宫廷监视怀疑，她转而将服饰作为生存的策略并以此提高她的声望。
一位不赞同她的贵族评论玛丽上演的是“名副其实的革命”。
奢侈实验
玛丽安东尼特混淆了皇室对配偶的期待。
在一系列诽谤运动中，她拒绝再穿着死板江华的束身衣。
学习骑车之后，她放弃了需要横坐马鞍的长而流畅的裙子，穿着男式马裤与骑马外套，而迅速招来谴责。
她的母亲警告她：“如果你像男人一样骑马，穿得像一个男人，我不得不告诉你我能预见到的危险以及对孩子的伤害。”
1774年，当她的丈夫路易十六加冕成为法国国王，所有的眼睛都注视在玛丽安东尼特和她新派的发型上。
大量粉沙状的头发在额头前高高束起，顶着一簇白色鸵鸟羽毛。
简单品质
十八世纪80年代中后期，玛丽安东尼特完全改变了风格。
她对她的国人开始追求Anglophile亲英派的时尚而感到生气，她的穿着更简单更轻便了。
当她穿着更柔和，对于国人仍旧喜欢细窄，麻布的拉雷恩无腰身裙而感到愤怒。
务农女孩造型是头上戴一顶宽大的草帽，任意倾斜想要的角度。
这是法国社会声讨的倾向，并且很快就被复制了。
