匠心还是剥削？揭秘墨西哥世界杯球衣背后的故事

Artisanal or Exploitative? Unraveling the Story of Mexico's World Cup Jerseys
匠心还是剥削？揭秘墨西哥世界杯球衣背后的故事
It began as a feel-good story. Someone Somewhere, a Mexican apparel company, posted online wondering why Mexico's World Cup jerseys couldn't be embroidered by some of the nation's Indigenous artisans. It was an idea that could bridge Mexico's past and present, the company argued, while lifting some of its most vulnerable out of poverty.
起初这是一个温馨的故事。墨西哥服装公司Someone Somewhere在网上发帖，问墨西哥的世界杯球衣为什么不能由该国的原住民绣工做刺绣呢？该公司称，这个创意能够连接墨西哥的过去与现在，同时还能帮助一些最弱势群体摆脱贫困。
The next day, Adidas called. Last month, two years after that call, Adidas and Someone Somewhere unveiled versions of the Mexican national team jersey embroidered by hand by 150 Nahua women high in the mountains of central Mexico, in a tiny town called Naupan. And the jerseys, despite costing more than 2.06, an hour to embroider jerseys that cost as much as $285 each, she said, citing unnamed sources. That would be 9 percent below Mexico's minimum wage.
她指责这两家公司剥削纳瓦族妇女，同时利用她们的形象获利。其中一个说法尤其引人注目：她援引匿名消息称，这些妇女的时薪是36比索（约合2.06美元），而刺绣的每件球衣售价高达285美元。这比墨西哥的最低工资还低9%。
Her videos rocketed across Mexico, racking up millions of views. And thousands of people left angry comments, some saying the companies were even more evil than they had thought. But little had been said by the Nahua women. So we traveled into the mountains to speak with them ourselves.
她的视频在墨西哥迅速爆火，获得了数百万的浏览量。成千上万的人留下愤怒的评论，有些人说这些公司比他们想象的还要邪恶。但是纳瓦妇女们几乎没说什么。所以我们亲自前往山区，与她们交谈。
Despite countless articles in the Mexican press, the Nahua woman who answered the door of the one-room workshop told us we were the first journalists to visit. Inside, more than 25 women sat at seven tables sewing the classic Adidas stripes in the Mexican flag's colors into the jerseys. They chatted in Nahuatl, an Indigenous language spoken by about 1.5 million people in Mexico.
尽管墨西哥媒体有无数文章报道这件事，在单间工坊门口给我们开门的那位纳瓦族女性说，我们是第一批来访的记者。在工坊内，超过25名女性坐在7张桌子旁，在球衣上用墨西哥国旗的颜色绣着经典的阿迪达斯条纹。她们用纳瓦特尔语聊天，这是一种在墨西哥约有150万人使用的土著语言。
I began asking questions, and they switched to Spanish. Then virtually all of them contradicted the national narrative.
我开始提问，她们便转用西班牙语。然后几乎所有人都反驳了全国范围内的叙事。
"Honestly, this job is much better than anything else," said Monica Marin, 45. "We come the hours we want," said Micaela Perez, 41. "I'm a widowed mother of two children. Thanks to this job, they see me." "What we earn is fair," said Anabel Guzmán, 35. "I've been able to get ahead with my kids."
“说实话，这份工作比任何其他工作都好得多。”45岁的莫妮卡·马林说。“我们想来就来，”41岁的米凯拉·佩雷斯说，“我没了丈夫，还有两个孩子。多亏了这份工作，孩子们能看到我。”“我们的工资很公平，”35岁的安娜贝尔·古兹曼说，“我能让孩子们的生活过好一点了。”
The opinion in the room was unanimous: The compensation was just, the schedule was flexible, the location was convenient and, for now, the work was consistent. Their complaint was that the gig would soon end with the World Cup. For many, that meant going back to tilling fields of beans, chiles and peanuts, which meant longer hours, less pay and more grueling work.
工坊里的意见是一致的：工资很公平，时间安排很灵活，地点很便利，而且就目前而言，工作也很稳定。她们的抱怨是，这份零工将随着世界杯的结束而很快终止。对许多人来说，这意味着要回去耕地种豆子、辣椒、花生，而种地的工作时间更长、报酬更低、工作更辛苦。