DESIGNER
CHARLES WORTH
Worth’s reputation as the father of haute couture — designer-led, custom-fit “high dressmaking” — was well earned.
He dominated the Paris scene for the entire second half of the 19th century and made the city the couture capital.
Shaping move in 19th-century Paris away from tailor-dressmakers toward designers whose creations bore their name.
AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD
The initial irony was that Monsieur Worth was an Englishman.
When family financial problems forced him out to work, he swapped his Lincolnshire home for an apprenticeship at London drapers Swan & Edgar at the age of 13.
In 1845 he moved to Paris to Gagelin’s, a dress accessories shop where he made a major mark, winning a medal for a stunning embroidered train at the 1855 Exposition Universelle in Paris.
By 1858 he had established his own Maison with business partner Otto Bobergh at 7 rue de la Paix.
ENDURING VALUES
Worth’s creations included frothy ball gowns and outfits combining taffeta, velvet, and his beloved Lyons silk, with intricate detailing such as wood beads wrapped in silk thread.
Midcentury, his work featured the oversized crinolines for which the man and the ear are so well known.
He pioneered the flat-fronted, bustle-backed skirt silhouette that took over after the empire fell in 1870.
设计师
查尔斯 沃斯
沃斯在时装界拥有良好的声誉，人们称他为设计师鼻祖，高级时装之父。
他主宰了整个19世纪下半叶的巴黎舞台，并使之成为时装之都。
进入十九世纪的巴黎服装裁缝师完成了从制作者到设计师的转变，是这座城市赋予他们新的定义。
一个外来英国人
最具讽刺意味的是，沃斯先生是一个英国人。
当家庭经济问题迫使他不得不开始工作时，13岁的他将林肯郡的家作为交换，获得伦敦面料公司斯宛埃德加的实习机会。
1845年他搬到巴黎Gagelin的一家服装配饰店，也是他人生重要的一段，在1855年巴黎博览会大奖赛上他以一枚令人惊叹的刺绣火车赢得了奖牌。
1858年他在 7 rue de la Paix与Otto Bobergh合作建立了自己的时装店。
持久价值
沃斯的创作包括空心蓬蓬裙搭配塔夫绸，天鹅绒或者他心爱的里昂丝绸外套，并伴有复杂的细节例如包裹丝绸的木头小珠。
众所周知他作品的特征是超大crinoline裙衬。
他开创了1870年代帝国没落后前平后翘的裙装剪影。
