1909 - 1926

ORIENTALISM

In the summer of 1909 the Ballets Russes (Russian Ballet), the company formed by impresario Sergei Diaghilev, first performed in Paris with great success.

The cut of this evening mantle by the House of Worth is reminiscent of a kimono and shows the enduring influence of Japan. 1909

Shows in other European cities followed over the next 10 years and everywhere the bright colors of the ballet’s sets and costumes made a huge impact — “exotic” feathers such as turbans and harem pants were adapted for fashionable dressing.

While Paul Poiret claimed to have used bright colors before the Ballets Russes, the French couturier, the so-called Pasha of Paris, is most associated with this trend.

Tamara Platnovna Karsavina danced the title role in Igor Stravinsky's ballet The firebird, a huge success when launched in Paris in 1911.

Poiret continued a long tradition of using motifs from Middle Eastern and Asian cultures in Western design that went back at least as far as the Renaissance.

During the 19th century North Africa and Japan were prominent sources of inspiration and continued to be in the 20th century.

Ideas of which countries belonged to the “Orient” changed over time, but they were usually associated with a richer, freer, and more sensuous way of life.

In 1911 Paul Poiret organized a costume party with the theme "The One Thousand and Second Night" to promote his new designs.

HARLEM DANCER

The identity of the women in this 1925 photograph — titled Dancer, taken in Harlem in New York City — is known, but she is wearing a costume similar to a Ballets Russes design.

Dyed ostrich feathers tower over a headdress perhaps in spired by traditional Persian dress.

Other than the baggy pants, her outfit is heavily embroidered with beads and spangles.

1909 - 1926

东方风格

1909年夏天，由意大利掌门Sergei Diaghilev组建的芭蕾舞团（俄罗斯芭蕾舞团），在巴黎的初次表演就大获成功。

接下来的十年间，陆续在欧洲其他城市演出，芭蕾舞团色彩明亮的造型与服饰带来轰动影响 -- “异国情调”羽毛装饰如头巾，灯笼裤成为时尚着装的一部分。

保罗 波烈（Paul Poiret）宣称在芭蕾舞团之前就经常使用明亮色彩，法国的系列（所谓的巴夏在巴黎）与这个潮流最相关。

波烈在西方设计中持续使用悠久传统的中东与亚洲文化主题，这些主题来源至少可以追溯到文艺复兴时期。

Paul Poiret created one of his best know designs, a tight "hobble" skirt and a lamp shade tunic held out with wire. 1914

十九世纪的北非与日本是之后二十世纪的主要灵感来源。

“东方”文化随时间而变化，但通常它们都与更丰富，更自由，更感性的生活方式相联系。

Peggy Guggenheim in Paul Poiret dress

哈莱姆舞女

这张1925年照片中女性的身份，叫“舞者”，拍摄自众所周知的纽约哈林姆区，但她的穿着与芭蕾舞团的设计非常相似。

染色的鸵鸟羽毛安在头饰上，或许是受到传统波斯服饰的影响。

除了宽松的裤子以外，她的服饰都是用珠子与亮片加上大量刺绣完成的。