格陵兰系列3:世界级的荒野 World-class wilderness

     (原文取自格陵兰航空公司杂志《Suluk》2017年02期)

An old dream has come true. Over the next couple of years, Greenland could have one or two areas designated as »sites of significant importance to humanity «. – It is high time, says expert。

一个古老的梦想成为现实。在接下来的几年里,格陵兰有一个或两个地区可能要被指定为“对人类有重要价值的地点”。——现在是时候了,专家说。
                                 

                                                                      ——Text: Niels Ole Qvist  作者:Niels Ole Qvist

Everywhere, tourism bosses are licking their lips at the prospect of areas becoming designated UNESCO world heritage sites. The list of sites includes more than 1000 attractions- iconic buildings like the pyramids and the Great Wall of China; places like the wonderful Australian coral reef, the Grand Canyon and the Galápagos Islands.
无论什么地方,旅游业的老板们都垂涎欲滴地期盼自家的哪个地区能被联合国教科文组织指定为世界文化遗产保护地。这个地点的名单包括1000多个名胜古迹——标志性建筑,像埃及金字塔和中国的长城;或者像澳大利亚大堡礁、科罗拉多大峡谷以及加拉帕戈斯群岛(太平洋东部的火山群岛,属于厄瓜多尔)这样的景点。
At present, Greenland is represented with one site: the Ilulissat Icefjord. But in July, when the 21 members of the heritage committee sit down around the oval table in Krakow, Poland, it will be time to hold one’s breath. Here, it will be decided if the farming culture in South Greenland is to be included in this distinguished company.

        (上图)South Greenland has a history with Vikings, Norse and Inuit.维京海盗、挪威人和因纽特人一起构成了格陵兰南部的古老历史。


目前,格陵兰有一处代表性地点:Ilulissat的冰峡湾。但是在六月,当21名遗产委员会成员在波兰的克拉科夫围坐在椭圆桌子前,那将是一个屏息等待的紧张时刻。届时将决定这个格陵兰南部的农业文明是否能够进入这个杰出队伍。
There is a lot at stake. UNESCO’s stamp of approval can result in a stream of tourists and help to lift the entire region. World heritage sites are often at the top of the list when cruise ships plan their summer routes and travel agents promote their new holiday destinations.


这里有许多利害关系。联合国教科文组织的认证能够带来游客的涌入,帮助带动整个地区旅游业发展。世界遗产景点常常是游轮夏天旅游路线计划的首选,也是旅游公司极力推销的新的度假目的地
– When tourists with deep pockets book their holidays, they go directly after UNESCO heritage sites. The importance
can hardly be overestimated, says department head Lise Lyck, Copenhagen Business School, who has worked with Greenland’s business community for several years.
——“当有经济实力的游客计划他们的度假,他们会直接选择联合国教科文组织世界遗产地。其重要性怎么高估也不过分”,哥本哈根商学院系主任Lise Lyck说。Lise Lyck已经与格陵兰商业界合作了许多年。


– Throughout the realm, there has been too much reluctance to exploit these opportunities. But now things are moving, also in Greenland, and that is really good, she adds.
——“在整个(丹麦)王国,利用这些因素曾经有太多阻力。但是现在事情向前推进中。”

          (上图)The Crown Prince Couple was in East Greenland last summer, where they enjoyed the good weather, the beautiful nature and were informed about how things were going with the application to be added to the list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites.
丹麦王国王储夫妇去年夏天造访格陵兰东部,享受怡人天气和绚丽风景,并听取关于申遗材料递交和进展情况的回报。

The exam 考试


When you visit South Greenland in summer, it is impossible not to be seduced by the magic of nature; the verdant valleys, icebergs sparkling in the sun, bleating sheep, towering mountain peaks and picturesque fjords. The light nights alone can induce an extra heartbeat.
当你在夏天到访南部格陵兰,你不可能不被神奇的大自然吸引;青翠的山谷,阳光下闪闪发光的冰山,咩咩叫的绵羊,高耸的山峰,还有风景如画的海湾。单是那明亮的夜晚,就足以给你格外的怦然心动。

But UNESCO’s world heritage list is not a beauty pageant. The area’s magic also play a role in the evaluation, but there should also be a significant story to tell. The place must be »of significant importance to humanity «as it is stated in the criteria.
但是教科文组织的世界文化遗产的认定不是选美比赛。这个地方的神奇发挥着重要作用,但也要能有重要内容可说。依照评选标准所阐明的,这个地方必须是“对人类有重要意义”。


So it has taken a lot of hard work to formulate an application. There was a huge amount of preparation work and it has taken many years. The effort culminated in December 2016 when curator Christian Koch Madsen from the National Museum of Greenland and architect Bolette Lehn from The Board of Culture were interviewed at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris. Up to 20 experts were seated in the room and were able to ask questions during the 30-minute long session.
因此,起草申请需要做大量的繁重工作。有巨大的准备工作,并且需要花费很多年的时间。到了2016年12月,当格陵兰国家博物馆馆长Christian Koch Madsen和文化文员会建筑师Bolette Lehn被联合国教科文组织总部在巴黎召见,所有这些努力达到高潮。那里将要面对的是,20多位专家聚集房间,长达30分钟的会议,可能要问到的很多问题。


– It felt like an examination, but we were prepared for most of the questions and they indicated that they were pleased with our input. I believe we have a strong case, says Christian Koch Madsen.
——“感觉就像是一场考试,但是对大多数的问题我们都有准备,他们也指出对我们的回答很满意。我相信我们有强有力的论据”,Christian Koch Madsen 说。

    (上图)Until now, the Ice Fjord at Ilulissat is the only unique natural site to be put on the list. Here, the influx of tourists has grown hugely.
到目前为止,以鲁利赛特(Ilulissat)的冰峡湾是申遗名单中唯一的独特的自然景观。这里游客大批涌入,数量猛增。


Bridging the gap  缩小差距

Former curator at the National Museum of Greenland, Georg Nyegaard, is also optimistic. 10 years ago, he was assigned to the steering committee of the time.
格陵兰国家博物馆前任馆长Georg Nyegaard也表示很乐观。10年前,他被委派到当时的筹备委员会。


– I always believed we would succeed. The original idea came from back in Jonathan Motzfeldt’s time. Since then, work of varying intensity has been done on the project, he says and substantiates his faith in the application thus:
——“我一直相信我们能够成功。这事的最初构想起于Jonathan Motzfeldt任职时期(1979年担任格陵兰第一任首相,2010年10月28日去世)。从那时起,这个项目的不同程度的工作就开始着手”,Georg Nyegaard说。同时他还对申请充满信心的缘由给出了如下的实证描述:


“East Greenland has inalienable values and the Arctic is on everyone’s lips due to the climate”
格陵兰东部有不可剥夺的价值,因为气候原因,北极是一个人人议论热点。


– In 2008 there was a scientific conference about the Norse settlers in connection with the 600th anniversary for the wedding in Hvalsey Church. There were 60-70 leading specialists and there was broad consensus that South Greenland had a huge potential as a world heritage site. There are many qualities: The well-preserved sites, not least the church ruins where you really feel the history. And it was here, that the first cultural meeting between east and west - the Inuit and the Europeans – took place.
——2008年,在霍尔西教堂(Hvalsey Church)婚礼600年纪念的之际(见下注)召开过关于挪威移民的学术会议。有60~70位的重要专家到会,并达成了广泛共识,认为格陵兰南部有巨大潜力成为世界文化遗产地。它具备很多特质:保存良好的遗址,尤其是教堂遗迹,让你真正能够感受到历史。也是在这里,东方和西方的文明之间第一次产生交汇——因纽特人和欧洲人——做到的。
【译者注】霍尔西教堂遗址——格陵兰南部Qaqortoq附近的维京时期挪威人建造的石教堂的废墟。现存有保留下来的1408年在这里举行过婚礼的文献记录。这也被视为在格陵兰的维京定居者的最后一个书面记录。以后挪威人就离开了格陵兰。
The nominated farming landscape is almost 350 square kilometres and covers localities that represent the Greenlandic Norse culture. The top attractions are Erik the Red’s farm, Brattahlid in Qassiarsuk and the seat of the bishop at Gardar in Igaliku. Curator Inge Bisgaard explains that it has been a challenge to link Norse history with Inuit history. They are chronologically separate, but historically connected periods.
被提名的方圆350平方公里的农业景观以及所覆盖地区,代表了格陵兰斯堪的纳维亚文化特色。最有吸引力的是位于Qassiarsuk的红胡子埃里克农场,伊奎利库村落(Igaliku)加达(见下注)主教的座堂。
【译者注】霍尔西教堂遗址——格陵兰南部Qaqortoq附近的维京时期挪威人建造的石教堂的废墟。现存有保留下来的1408年在这里举行过婚礼的文献记录。这也被视为在格陵兰的维京定居者的最后一个书面记录。以后挪威人就离开了格陵兰。

– But we have succeeded in weaving the history together very well in the final application, she notes.
——“但是在最终的申请资料中,我们已经成功地把历史非常好地编织到了一起,”

World heritage on a big scale 大规模的世界遗产


The dream of finding a place in nature’s »Hall of Fame« also lives elsewhere. For several years, Qeqqata Kommunia has worked on the formulation of an application and they have got so far in the process that their goal is within reach.
找到一处符合大自然“名人堂”的地方的梦想,也在其他地方存在。Qeqqata政府就曾做出努力提交了申请,到目前为止他们正在进行中,目标似乎近在咫尺。

– The technical part has been approved and the application is also most ready to be sent off. The process will probably culminate in 2018, says curator Christian Koch Madsen.
——“技术部分已经被证明,申请材料也已经准备呈送。这个过程可能在2018年达到高潮”,Christian Koch Madsen说。

The area lies between Sisimiut and Kangerlussuaq and stretches from the icecap, over enormous reindeer hunting areas to fjords and islands with many prehistoric settlements. It is a gigantic area of 4,000 square kilometres; ten times bigger than the area in South Greenland.
这个地方位于Sisimiut市和Kangerlussuaq市之间,从冰盖地带开始,穿过大型的驯鹿狩猎区,一直延伸到峡湾和有着许多史前部落遗址的群岛。这是4000平方公里的巨大区域,是南部格陵兰的十倍。
The first Eskimos from the Dorset and Saqqaq Cultures lived here and there are plenty of archaeological traces: Turf walls, shooting hides, graves, fox traps and tent rings. There are also more modern finds such as a fort from the 1700’s on the island of Nipisat. In all, the area contains cultural sites from the history of the Inuit in West Greenland throughout 4,500 years.
由多塞特文化(见下注)和萨卡克文化(见下注)形成的最早的爱斯基摩人就居住在这里,这里存有很多考古遗迹:草皮墙,狩猎掩体,坟墓,狐狸陷阱,压帐篷的石头圈。这里也有很多更现代的发现,比如Nipisat岛上的18世纪的炮台。总之,这个地区有很多格陵兰西部4500多年间的因纽特人的历史文化遗迹。
【译者注】1、多塞特文化——北美北极地区从公元100年延续到1000年的因纽特人文化。
                 2、萨卡克文化——一群叫做萨卡克的古人独立地到达北美洲,形成萨卡克文化。这个群体约在4750年前至2500年前居住于格陵兰岛,他们也是黄种人,不幸后来灭绝。

     (上图)The people behind the new UNESCO application believe Greenland’s hunting culture is an inalienable cultural heritage
  新的联合国教科文世界文化遗产申请者坚信,格陵兰狩猎文化是历史文化遗产不可分割的一部分。

Under-represented 代表性地点尚有不足

The country’s fourth municipality, Sermersooq, also has plans to join the races for UNESCO approval. Mayor Asii Chemnitz Narup is behind the initiative together with two East Greenland council members Justus Hansen and Vittus Mikaelsen. They point out the unique hunting environment around Tasiilaq and the surrounding villages as an obvious choice.
格陵兰第四行政市Sermersooq,也有计划参与到教科文组织认证的竞赛中来。市长Asii Chemnitz Narup支持东格陵兰委员会两位成员Justus Hansen和Vittus Mikaelsen的创意计划。他们指出Tasiilaq周围独特的狩猎环境,以及周围的村落,是明显的选择。

– We know from the other places that it is a long process. But now the idea has been born and we have faith in it. East Greenland has inalienable values and the Arctic is on everyone’s lips due to the climate. This interest should pave the way for more world heritage sites, says Justus Hansen.
“我们从其他地方的经历中获知,申遗是一个漫长的过程。但是现在主意已出,我们对此持有信心。格陵兰东部有不可剥夺的价值,因为气候原因,北极是一个人人议论热点。这一利益点应该为更多的世界文化遗产地的申请铺平道路。” Justus Hansen说。
UNESCO is aware that the Arctic is strongly under-represented on the list. While Italy is represented with 51 sites and smaller countries such as Belgium and Denmark have 12 and seven respectively, the entire Arctic has only a handful of sites.
联合国教科文组织意识到北极是申遗列表中的强烈性的非代表性的。意大利有51处,比利时和丹麦这样的小国家也分别有12处和7处。全部的北极只有一处遗址。

UNESCO intends to do something about this imbalance. In 2016, a meeting was held at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris where researchers met to discuss the possibility of getting on more Arctic »marine environments «on the list. This work is now up and running, supported by the Prince Albert of Monaco Foundation.
联合国教科文组织有意向对这种不平衡做出行动。2016年,在巴黎的联合国教科文组织总部招待的一个会议,研究人员齐聚一起探讨得到北极“海洋基金的资产”进入名单。这个工作现在正在运作中,获得了摩纳哥阿尔伯特王子的支持。

      (上图)In the south, the landscape is rich in Norse ruins.在格陵兰南部,有着丰富的早年挪威人留下遗迹。


     
(上图)The hunting culture has developed over thousands of years. It is the same with the kayak: from the
watertight, scraped sealskins – to the plastic version.
狩猎文化已有数千年的发展历史。这是爱斯基摩人的皮划船(kayak):当年是用特殊处理的防水的海豹皮制作——现在则使用塑料材料制作。

– The Arctic offers wildlife that is not found anywhere else on earth, for example narwhals, walrus and Greenland whales. The Arctic is also ground zero for climate changes, it said in a statement from the meeting of experts in Paris.
——“北极圈能提供世界上独一无二的野生动物,比如独角鲸、海象和格陵兰鲸鱼。北极圈也是气候变化的零地带”,巴黎会议上的专家们发表的声明中如是说。

So this summer, when the Polish chairman of UNESCO, Jacek Purchla, puts South Greenland’s proposal on the table in front of the other 20 committee members, the chances are improved not just by a well-documented application, but also by the fact that the Arctic is riding on a general wave of goodwill. 
因此这个夏天,当波兰教科文组织全国委员会主席Jacek Purchla教授
把格陵兰南部的申请材料放在其他20名成员的面前,申请成功的机会又得以往前推进,这不仅仅因为申请材料证据充足,还由于北极圈之美誉已经风靡世界。

   (上图)UNESCO has acknowledged that the Arctic is strongly under-represented on the list of world heritage sites. Three new Greenlandic candidates are being prepared. Here is a mountain in East Greenland – shaped like a pyramid!
联合国教科文组织已经认可,在世界文化遗产名录中北极圈的代表性地点不足。三个格陵兰的新的候选项正在准备中。图中是格陵兰东部的一座冰山——形状就像金字塔。

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